Exploring Shetland on a trip to experience Up Helly Aa
As a land that sits so far out in the harsh and treacherous waters of the North Sea, it is difficult to believe that the small groups of islands known as the Shetland Isles could possibly hold any life. Winter winds blast the hills through the long nights at 60° North, chilling any unprepared adventurer to the very bone. And yet, despite all of the odds, the beautifully elemental islands of Shetland are home to the warmest people that you will ever meet.
A tumultuous roar signalled it time for the torches to be thrown onto the boat. Soon enough the flames ignited the galley and up it went in a ball of flames, lighting up the sky above and the crowds that gathered around it, wide eyed and open mouthed at the spectacle before them.
Through blustery winds and horizontal sleet, the doors of the local Shetlanders are always open to those brave enough to venture out into the cold; a dram of whisky in hand to warm the belly, a roaring fire to dry damp jackets, and a song of old times to cheer any sodden brows.
Visiting Shetland has been on our bucket list for as long as we can remember, especially to experience the world-famous festival known as Up Helly Aa. The rugged cliffs, white sandy beaches, and deep historical and cultural roots of Shetland had us fascinated to explore this ancient group of islands, and when the opportunity arose in January of 2024 we grabbed it with both hands.
We left Aberdeen aboard NorthLink Ferries MV Hrossey late at night with a comfortable cabin to rest our heads, and excitement for what was awaiting us in Shetland to fill our dreams. In the early hours of the morning, we arrived in Lerwick to the wind and rain, which quickly changed and brightened up as the sun rose. A full itinerary awaited us for the week at 60° North, and we were excited to get stuck into
visiting all of the sights that Shetland had to offer.
After a short walk around the streets of Lerwick admiring the cute streets and local shops, we headed in the direction of Walls as we were attending a friend’s wedding there that evening. The winding roads and breath-taking views made us fall in love with Shetland instantly.
Any drive through the open landscape of the Shetland countryside is going to be a slow one, with constant photo stops to admire the viewpoints that dot the roads, revealing distant harbours and hidden coves along the shore. We constantly felt the urge to pull in and get our camera out, snapping the changing moody colours in the sky that were reflecting off the sea. The landscape is incredibly rugged and the waves crashing off the rocks and lapping the stunning white sandy beaches were an unforgettable sight to see.
Not to mention the cute Shetland Ponies that you will come across on your drive around the island, you just can’t pass by without wanting to stop and say hello to them.
One of our first sights on our itinerary was the ancient Staneydale Temple, which consists of large stone boulders built in a circle dating back to between 4000-5000 years ago. From the small car park, the walk took around 45 minutes over some boggy ground, so we would recommend wearing a pair of good waterproof shoes if you want to visit. This was a great insight into a part of Shetland’s history with Historic Scotland information boards detailing the entire area.
It was then time for a refuel as the day was moving on and we had had plenty of recommendations to visit The Original Cake Fridge in Bixter. It did not disappoint. A host of different cakes and traybakes of all different shapes, flavours, and sizes all sat waiting in the unassuming fridge at the side of the road. We chose the orange chocolate tiffins and will certainly be back on our next trip to Shetland. They were delicious!
Despite this one being labelled the “Original Cake Fridge”, these so-called “cake fridges” operate all across the island. Working on an honesty system, these fridges are self-service, meaning you take the item that you want and pay the amount into a box inside the fridge. Gluten free and vegan options also tend to be available so there is usually something for everyone.
After a cup of tea and this pick-me-up, the wind blew the clouds over just in time for a moody sunset, and we enjoyed a windy walk at Dale of Walls, a small beach on the western coast of Shetland near Walls. This secluded spot left us feeling like the only people in the world, watching the crashing waves out at sea crashing off the rocks as the last of the daylight faded away before our eyes. What an end to our first day in Shetland.
Our second day in Shetland began by exploring one of the isles off the west coast of the mainland. We parked at Hamnavoe pier and went for a walk around the coastline with our friend Laurie, a local who runs tours here on the island. Laurie told us about Smugglers Cave which sits hidden amongst the rocks with an 8ft drop, which can be entered at your own risk by a rope ladder.
Smugglers Cave was created by sea erosion after years and years of crashing waves attacking the coastline, to which a sea cave was formed. Smugglers Cave may have been a place to find refuge or store illicit goods hundreds of years ago, however, today it is an interesting place to explore. The walk took around 15 minutes and the ground was fairly dry despite a lot of prior rainfall so it is the perfect winter walk. We were lucky to see seals playing out at sea and huge waves crashing off the rocks in the distance on our walk around this beautiful coastline.
On a calm day you can also go swimming at the Burra tidal pool, which you can walk around from here. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t safe for us to go swimming on this particular day but despite that we were awe-struck watching the massive swells out at sea from the stormy weather.
One thing we quickly learned about visiting Shetland in winter is to go with the flow and make the most of the good weather while you can. We had to keep this in mind as we were driving around in a high sided motorhome, making journeys in gusty weather isn’t always safe. We made the most of the dry days that we had and still managed to see plenty of the sights we wanted to despite only having 6 hours of daylight at these northerly isles.
The following day saw us enjoying a rare break in the wind and rain, with blue skies overhead and a definite spring in our steps to explore more. A visit to St Ninian’s Isle on the west coast of mainland Shetland was definitely in order as we had heard about its beauty and tranquillity. The sun was shining and the waves were glistening as they lapped the shoreline during our drive south along Shetland’s winding single track roads, and we were loving every second of it.
St Ninian’s Beach is a large sandy natural causeway with the sea on either side and is one of the more unique sights to see in Shetland. This links the South Mainland with the island and is a beautiful place for a walk if you can time the tides right to ensure you will not get stranded.
From this vista, we followed on down the coast to enjoy the soft white sand at Scousborough Sands and enjoyed the view from the road towards Rerwick Beach, spotting the local seal colony that frequently sunbathed on the white sandy shore. It is advised not to enter this beach due to the seal colony living there, and so instead the view from above is the preferred vantage point. We enjoyed watching the seals bathing in the sun and playing in the waves, before it was time to head back to Scalloway Campsite and get some rest before the big day tomorrow – the Up Helly Aa fire festival.
Up Helly Aa was the main event that brought us all the way north to the Shetland Isles and let it be known that despite the rocky crossing and questionable weather once we had arrived, the festival did not disappoint.
There was a great atmosphere around the town from the minute the dawn broke, with scores of people all out to observe the first march of the Guizer Jarl and his squad through the streets of Lerwick. Trumpets blared and voices rang as seemingly the entire island joined in with the annual celebration of the end of the darkest days of winter.
As evening fell, we attended the torch lit procession, witnessing over 1000 torches ignite and illuminate the dark evening sky, filling the town of Lerwick with an eerie glow. Carried by Guizers along a prescribed route, the torches made their way around the central park in Lerwick, looping back and forth as the crowds chanted the Up Helly Aa song and cheered on the lines of Shetlanders, all boasting fancy dress.
As the procession drew to a close, the Guizers made their way inside the park as it became time for the ceremonial burning of the galley. This intricately designed and detailed replica longboat was the centrepiece of the entire procession and was now the sacrificial lamb of the festival. The flaming torches all gathered into a series of rings surrounding the galley, before the final call was given by the Guizer Jarl and a tumultuous roar signalled it time for the torches to be thrown onto the boat. Soon enough the flames ignited the galley and up it went in a ball of flames, lighting up the sky above and the crowds that gathered around it, wide eyed and open mouthed at the spectacle before them.
After the procession was over, we were lucky enough to get tickets to a local hall where the so-called “after party” begins. Here we ceilidh danced through the night and laughed our cheeks sore as we watched the Guizers perform acts until the early hours of the next morning.
I can still feel the heat from the flames toasting my frozen cheeks as I watched this unforgettable scene before me, like one that would be more at home in the fictional Viking films than in this quiet and unassuming island. It is a memory that will stay burned into my brain for the rest of my life.
Other activities we enjoyed on our trip to Shetland and we would highly recommend you check out if you are visiting are –
- Eshaness Lighthouse viewpoint to watch the waves
- Sumburgh Head Lighthouse to learn the history of Shetland’s role in WWII
- Scalloway Museum for local insights into island life
- Fjara Cafe for a lunch with a view
- Visiting the Shetland Ponies all across the island for the cutest memories
During our time in Shetland we stayed at Scalloway Caravan Park which was the perfect base for our stay. We had all of the facilities we needed from electric hook up to fresh water and waste disposal. There is also a communal area with washing up and laundry facilities, as well as toilet and shower facilities onsite.
Our time in Shetland was one that we will never forget and we will definitely be making a trip back to get stuck into more of what this beautiful part of the world has to offer. We toured our motorhome in Shetland for one week, however, you could easily spend one month here and still have more to explore as there is so much to offer.
By Gemma and CampbellA free spirited couple from Scotland with hearts full of adventure, and a passion for what is yet to be discovered. The best things in life really are free and our goal is to show you that you do not have to be rich to travel. Discover more at highlands2hammocks.co.uk
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