Robin McKelvie in Orkney: The historic heart of Kirkwall

In an archipelago with such rich prehistoric, varied wildlife and breathtaking scenic treasures some visitors understandably make the mistake of just using Kirkwall as a transit hub. The Orcadian capital is indeed a brilliant ferry hub, thanks to NorthLink Ferries, but it is so much more besides, as I’ve discovered with multiple memorable experiences over the years in this striking, charming waterfront town.

Kirkwall boasts a swathe of shops, from souvenir stores, through to traditional sweetie shops (my daughters love those) and high-class boutiques, where you can pick up locally crafted jewellery and unique souvenirs, or presents that will shine back home long after your trip.

Some visitors to Orkney skip Kirkwall altogether to head for more remote spots. Don’t. The arrival of more cruise ship passengers has really kickstarted the town. Its sturdy stone buildings are now home to a new wave of cafes, bars and shops that offer a choice unimaginable a few decades ago when I first visited.

One of my first experiences of Kirkwall was a dramatic one. I headed out with Kirkwall Kayaking Club deep into Kirkwall Bay. Here, as well as appreciating the violent tidal currents that were trying to scoot me off to Norway, I instantly appreciated how Kirkwall came to flourish at a strategic spot on Orkney’s mainland, on what is a protected bay surrounded by what were sometimes treacherous waters. I also appreciated Kirkwall’s elegant stone buildings and sparkle of church spires.

Arriving from the water is the only way to arrive to really appreciate Kirkwall. Then it’s deep into the town proper, a town that these days is so well set up for tourism that it keeps winning awards from cruise ship companies. Their passengers create a buzz of activity during summer days, but the streets even then are blissfully quiet early in the morning and then get quieter again in the evening when the ships are gone.

Kirkwall today boasts a swathe of shops, from souvenir stores, through to traditional sweetie shops (my daughters love those) and high-class boutiques, where you can pick up locally crafted jewellery and unique souvenirs, or presents that will shine back home long after your trip.

Venturing into one venue as a microcosm we have one of the pioneers – Judith Glue Real Food Café and Restaurant. This canny business has a restaurant stuffed full of Orcadian produce, from Orkney Mainland beef to Westray crab. They also have a well-stocked arts and craft shop where Orcadian handicrafts grace the shelves – think Orcadian chunky knits that are up there for me with the famous jumpers of nearby Fair Isle.

Kirkwall is far more than just superb retail opportunities though: this is a graceful town forged in history. The most famous landmark is, of course, St. Magnus Cathedral, arguably the most visually arresting building in all of Orkney. The ‘Light of the North’ is a cathedral built for a Viking king, a sturdy, awe-inspiring Romanesque creation with its roots in the 12th century. Dip inside and its cool stone walls echo with the ghosts and intrigue of centuries of Orcadian history.

Continuing on the history trail nearby lie the Bishop’s Palace and the Earl’s Palace, which open up different periods in Orcadian history. The medieval Bishop’s Palace is contemporaneous with St Magnus Cathedral, its first bishop, William the Old, holding sway in the 12th century. Next door the Renaissance Earl’s Palace was built later in the 1600s by the notorious Patrick Stewart, Earl of Orkney, who used forced labour to forge his stronghold. Both today are romantic ruins awash with ghosts and are great fun for clambering around as well as learning – my daughters loved checking out all the peedie nooks and crannies.

Handily Kirkwall is also home to one of my favourite whisky distilleries – Highland Park. I thoroughly recommend a tour of what is currently Scotland’s most northerly whisky distillery. Highland Park is a proper old school whisky distillery where the tour has to weave around the machinations of whisky production at a complex where the water of life has been conjured up since the 18th century. For me its drams are a perfect balance, with the sweetness I associate with the more mellow Speyside malts and a whiff of the peat I more normally enjoy with Islay whisky.

I’m also a fan of Orkney gin Kirkjuvagr, which you can snare straight from their glitzy gin emporium at Orkney Distillery. They offer tours too where you can learn more about Viking-themed gin infused with local botanicals such as Ramanas Rose, Burnet Rose and Borage. Kirkwall is the Orcadian hub so the best fresh produce often makes its way into town from the rest of the islands in the Orkney archipelago.

After a wee dram, or a gin, you’ll be in the mood for a party and Kirkwall is a town that likes a knees-up, especially when one of their big festivals swirls around. The St. Magnus International Festival in June brings a multi medium collage of arts, with theatre, dance, music and literature injecting Kirkwall with renewed vigour at midsummer. Another highlight on the busy cultural calendar is May’s Orkney Folk Festival, which sweeps up all the best local talent and famous names well beyond the Orcadian archipelago too.

There are a whole Viking longship of Kirkwall memories and experiences I could write a whole other blog on and that is bijou, but immensely rewarding, Kirkwall for you. There is the dreich (but massively fun) two days we spent in a motorhome at the site at Pickaquoy, where the leisure centre next door proved great fun with my girls making lots of local friends. My wife and I made new friends too. Kirkwall is a handy place to be on a wet day.

Then there was the seafood feast at the Harbour View Restaurant at the Kirkwall Hotel a couple of years ago. Peering over the bobbing boats I tucked into Kirkwall Bay fish chowder followed by a daily special of plump local scallops. Utterly delicious. Then there are the lively bars – maybe a future blog all on their own?

Far from just seeing Kirkwall as only a handy transport hub I relish my time in town. This northern charmer – where you can sometimes see the Northern Lights in winter – offers swathes of things to see and do, from kayaking and sightseeing, to whisky drinking and retail therapy – so don’t make the mistake of just passing through.

By Robin McKelvie
Robin McKelvie is an award-winning travel writer and broadcaster who has been published in over 200 magazines and newspapers worldwide.

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