8 reasons why the Orkney Islands are unique
I’ve been lucky to visit the Northern Isles over a dozen times and spend proper time in this heaven on earth. Lucky too to have friends there who keep me up to speed on all the comings and goings in these fascinating archipelagos. The Northern Isles are not just fascinating, not just scenic, not just remarkable. The Orkney Islands are utterly, spirit-soaringly, unique. Here are eight reasons why…
Those are just the best-known sites, with myriad more to explore, including on Papa Westray, where a treasure hundreds of years even older than anything on Orkney’s mainland awaits.
1. Archipelagos Ahoy!
When I tell people that Scotland boasts over 800 islands, they are almost universally surprised it is so many. When I tell them 70 of those isles lie in Orkney’s archipelago they are blown away. Their thoughts of just popping into Orkney on a day trip quickly dissolve. There is nothing like Orkney anywhere else in the British Isles and that is a sheer joy as it gives you an almost endless choice of islands to visit. You can – and many people do – have a brilliant trip sauntering around the Orkney mainland, but there is a whole archipelago to explore beyond that. Orkney is an island gift that just keeps on giving.
2. A Mind-Blowing Neolithic World
Forget the ‘new’ site at Stonehenge as the Northern Isles unearth Neolithic – and even Mesolithic – treasures much older. The Heart of Neolithic Orkney stars on UNESCO’s World Heritage list with the brilliantly preserved coastal village at Skara Brae, the circle and henge at Brodgar and the vaulting stones at Stenness, plus the incomparable burial cairn of Maeshowe. Those are just the best-known sites, with myriad more to explore, including on Papa Westray, where a treasure hundreds of years even older than anything on Orkney’s mainland awaits. The Knap of Howar is simply one of my favourite historic sites in the world. It offers a unique chance to peer into life almost 6,000 years ago!
3. Vibrant Viking Heritage
England’s east coast, Ireland and Scotland’s west coast tease you with touches of Viking heritage, but for the real deal you have to hop on a NorthLink Ferry to the Northern Isles. Here, in Orkney, they even still have a vaulting cathedral built by a Viking. Taking this vast structure in turns all those warrior Viking clichés you’ve seen in films on their head. St Magnus Cathedral was founded in 1137 by a Viking, Earl Rognvald, in honour of his eponymous martyred uncle.
4. Unique traditions
Orkney Islanders don’t have to toy with new-fangled festivals trying to re-create past glories and resurrect distant culture. Not when they have their own cultural shenanigans that are deeply rooted in their heritage. The Kirkwall Ba’ Game, or just The Ba’ is an insane event where competitors battle in an ancient contest between the Uppies and the Doonies. There is a version for younger players too – the Boys Ba’. You do see other street ball games on the Scottish mainland, but there is nothing like Orkney’s version as players flock to Kirkwall from around the archipelago to bulk up the local rivalry.
5. Critical World War Roles
It is no exaggeration to say that both World Wars could have shaped up very differently without the involvement of the Orkney Islands. And I’m not just talking about the brave local souls who served and sacrificed. Orkney offers quite simply the finest natural harbour in the British Isles, which was not lost on the Royal Navy who used it extensively during both conflicts. The legacy are the German and British shipwrecks of Scapa Flow and the Churchill Barriers that are now used as causeways between the isles.
6. Sensational walking
The Highlands are rightly famous for hiking, but the Northern Isles offer world-class walking experiences that are up there. If you are after hills, yomp around Hoy in Orkney. I’ve savoured some great wild walks on Hoy. If you’re a talented and experienced climber the Old Man of Hoy – first climbed only in 1966 – represents the ultimate challenge. On Orkney’s mainland there are some of Scotland’s finest coastal walks around cliffs alive with seabirds.
7. World-class food and drink
The Orkney archipelago bursts with unforgettable local produce. If sightseeing proves thirsty work in Orkney you are bountifully covered. There are two excellent whisky distilleries – Scapa and Highland Park. Orkney Brewery produce a massive favourite of mine – the fulsome chocolatey delight of Dark Island, while the Swannay Brewery also brew excellent beers. There is gin too from Orkney Gin Company and Orkney Distilling. Orkney beef and lamb is also first-rate, as is the shellfish and acclaimed cheddar.
8. NorthLink Ferries!
Getting to the Northern Isles is all part of the fun with NorthLink Ferries. It always feels romantic forging out of Aberdeen’s busy harbour to join the dolphins that often leap around just outside on a journey to another world bound for Kirkwall in Orkney. And it is no ordinary journey as you can quaff a gorgeous pint of local ale, and dine on Northern Isles produce. Or take a scenic sailing between Caithness in the north of Scotland, and Stromness in Orkney. Time it right, and you’ll see the setting sun turning the sandstone cliffs of Hoy, and the famous landmark, the Old Man of Hoy, a flaming red!
By Robin McKelvieRobin McKelvie is an award-winning travel writer and broadcaster who has been published in over 200 magazines and newspapers worldwide.
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